Behind the Scenes: Reflecting on a Visit to Tanzania's Nature and Communities
Having had over a decade of experience in conservation, I was already impressed with the depth and breadth of work the team was doing, but to hear my colleagues speak, see the dedication and feel the passion they have for their work I was again filled with a sense of pride.
Molly Dodge, APW Director of Conservation Partnerships
It was a gray morning as we passed through the gates of Tarangire National Park. I scanned the savannah, interrupted by thick baobab trees, looking for movement. We turned left down a dirt road, and I called out, “Cheetah."
I could have stayed there for hours watching her stalking gazelles—but eventually, she abandoned the hunt and let out a call—a call I had heard before, but never in the wild. She was summoning her cubs! Three fluffy nuggets emerged from the grass and obediently followed behind her as they moved on to their next location. I was overwhelmed by the scene—filled with hope and fear for the future of these cubs, but also pride knowing that in some small way, through my role at African People & Wildlife, I am contributing to a future for big cats.
This was one of many moments of awe I had during my recent travels to Tanzania. I joined the APW team as Director of Conservation Partnerships in March 2023 and this trip was my first opportunity to see the work firsthand and meet my colleagues in person. A self-proclaimed animal nut, I was beyond excited to have the privilege and opportunity to visit Tarangire National Park and the infamous Ngorongoro Crater. All told I saw 37 species—38 if you count the zonkey.
We counted 11 lions as we traversed Tarangire on our way to our headquarters at the Noloholo Environmental Center! We arrived late in the afternoon—welcomed enthusiastically by the program leads and full-time staff and residents of Noloholo. I was nervous, having been told stories of snakes and hyenas, but after the first night, I was more intrigued than frightened and was excited when my headlamp caught the reflective eyeshine of animals lurking in the bush on the dark walks back to my room.
The following days we convened to celebrate successes, acknowledge challenges, and map out our ambitions for the future. Having had over a decade of experience in conservation, I was already impressed with the depth and breadth of work the team was doing, but to hear my colleagues speak and see the dedication and feel the passion they have for their work, I was again filled with a sense of pride.
There were a few particular occasions during the trip where the impact of our work was palpable.
During a visit to a school in Loibor Serrit for our Youth Environmental Education Program, I nervously exchanged greetings in Swahili with the students. They were members of the Simba Wildlife Club, an after-school program focused on wildlife and conservation. On that day, the discussion centered around plastic pollution. In the back of the class stood Noah, a former club member and current recipient of one of APW's full-ride scholarships to secondary school.
Speaking outside under the shade of a schoolyard tree, he shared his ambitions to be a pilot or an animal scientist. His parents, having never gotten an education themselves, decided to send all seven of their children to school. The children brought knowledge home with them that provided opportunities and changed their parent’s perceptions. They learned how to speak Swahili and Noah’s mother started a small business selling tea at the market.
Experiencing this intergenerational impact, beyond the usual jargon found in white papers, was a profound moment as I sat with two generations and witnessed the transformative effects of a modest scholarship on their entire family.
Seeing the expanse of the Ngorongoro Crater for the first time was another indescribable moment. I had seen it in countless nature documentaries, but it was more beautiful than I had imagined. Driving through and seeing the communities on the outskirts with their livestock and winding our way down to the basin filled with wildlife, I could see a world where APW’s vision of people and wildlife living in balance was a reality.
We were fortunate to have a ranger with us who knew all the best places to catch the iconic animals, including endangered black rhinos! Seeing a rhino for the first time is something I will never forget. In their armor they almost looked unreal, but again it was a personal experience that trumped the animals that day.
APW is working with the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority to support human-wildlife coexistence, particularly trying to prevent and respond to conflict between farmers and elephants. We had a discussion with Yohana, a young female Human-Elephant Conflict Officer in Oldeani, a village outside of the Crater.
We asked why she wanted to become an HEC Officer and she responded that, “I live with wildlife and want to find solutions.” She hopes that the opportunity will allow her to pursue more education and help bring resources to the community, protecting the wildlife that underpins tourism. This respect for wildlife and the desire to find solutions really struck me. It is a sentiment that I wish was more present in how we deal with human-wildlife conflict in the U.S.
At the end of my 16-day journey, I was exhausted but filled with gratitude. On many occasions, I muttered to myself, “I can’t believe this is my job.” I am lucky to be a part of this amazing organization. I remain in awe of my colleagues and all that has been accomplished in the past 19 years. Their energy is contagious and motivates me to do all I can to contribute to our mission of a world where people and wildlife coexist.
Tanzania is a spectacular place—it is an honor to be able to contribute to sustaining the people and biodiversity that make it so special. I will never forget my first visit and hope that it is just the beginning of many more to come.